How To Protect From Lawn Burnout In The Summer

Posted on July 15, 2019July 15, 2019Categories Blog

As we’re about halfway through the month of July, I think this is probably an important subject to address. Our area is beginning to experience consecutive days of 90+ degrees of heat, which even the hardiest lawns can be stressed by. Below are a few tips to keep your lawn looking tip top through the rest of summer, and prevent from lawn burnout.

burnt out lawn vs healthy lawn

Raise The Cutting Height On Your Mower Deck

If the lawn is being mowed at any less than 3 inches right now, I would bet serious money it’s going to burn out before the fall. It’s very easy to tell which lawns are being cut at a proper height, and which ones are not. The picture below is of a lawn we take care of from less than a week ago. The color of the lawn has a nice dark green color, and minimal yellow spots. Yellow spots are a sign the lawn is stressed. This could be because of a number of reasons such as dull mower blades, cutting too short, or a lawn treatment that killed weeds and left yellow spots.

If you are not sure of the height of your mower blade, simply take a ruler and measure from the ground to the bottom of the blade and make sure it’s at least 3 inches. Even on commercial lawn mowers like we have, when the decks are assembled onto the mower, the height of the mower is almost never the same as where the pin says the height is. For instance, on our Gravely mower, we know the actual cut height is a quarter of an inch lower than where the pin says it’s located. So if we are cutting a lawn at 3.5 inches, we set the mower to 3.75 inches because the deck leveling isn’t perfect.

beautiful lawn with great edging

Watering The Lawn (If Necessary)

So far we’ve had an abundance of rain, but July and August in Pennsylvania can be drought city. Lawns need at least one good watering per week. A solid rain really allows for maximum absorption and will prevent lawn burnout. The best time to water a lawn is in the morning before the sun has completely risen. This is because watering a lawn while the sun is fully risen will waste a good amount of water to evaporation. Watering at night is good, but can be an issue with lawn mold and fungus’s.

Sharpen Lawn Mower Blades

Keeping your mower blades sharp is one of the best tips a lawn care company can offer. The above picture shows blades of grass cut with dull and sharp lawn mower blades. If your lawn looks like the picture on the left, you are causing a lot of stress on your lawn, which is especially dangerous in the summer. On the right is how blades of grass should look after it was mowed. If you are mowing the lawn yourself, I’d recommend sharpening your blades now since we are about half way through the season. This will keep your property nice and healthy for the rest of the year and help to avoid lawn burnout.

At our company, we sharpen and replace blades every week because of the volume we do, and because of the quality of cut. Professional lawn companies change blades frequently for this exact reason It’s easy to spot a lawn that was being cut with dull blades, you’ll see uncut blades of grass, and a light green hew to the lawn that will turn the lawn yellow if the issue is not addressed. There are a number of “How To” videos on Youtube for sharpening mower blades, or take them a local hardware store.

Consistent Mowing Schedule

Frequent mowing (weekly) is required for all healthy lawns. Waiting too long between lawn cuts is a recipe for disaster. You never want to “Tomahawk” a lawn (chop off more than one third of each blade) because you’ll kill it. Also when grass grows too long without being mowed, it’ll become yellow above the soil line and begin to die off.

Avoiding Lawn Burnout Conclusion

Hopefully this article was enlightening and you will share it with your friends! Keep those lawns nice and healthy this summer!! For quality landscaping service and weekly lawn mowing, contact us today.

Plant Profile: Emerald Green Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis)

Posted on February 7, 2019February 7, 2019Categories Blog
emerald green arborvitae as a privacy hedge

Emerald Green arborvitae is an evergreen in the Cypress family (Cupressaceae). Although some might say they are, technically, tall shrubs, they are commonly referred to as “trees”.

Emerald Green Arborvitaes are great for privacy hedges and wind breaks on any property. Emerald Green Arborvitae typically reach about 12 feet in height and spread between 3 and 4 feet wide. They grow in a pyramid shape, which differs from how most shrubs grow in a ‘globe’ like shape. The pyramid shape helps make them a great privacy hedge. Emerald Green Arborvitae can be confused with Green Giant Arborvitae, which grow much faster, and much taller. Green Giant arborvitae are not good privacy hedges because of their massive size.

Emerald Green’s will have no problem with freezing temperatures or ice in the winter. They are low maintenance until they reach maturity, which at that point will likely need hedge trimming each spring. Trim arborvitae in the spring before new growth is established.

Planting Arborvitae

If you are planting more than one arborvitae, make sure to properly space each plant out. We recommend at least 3 feet apart from one another. They will grow into the space between one another, and if they are planted too close together they can get crowded. When shrubs or trees get crowded, they are more susceptible to disease.

Dig a hole that is at least 3 inches wider than the base of the arborvitae. This is important because when you back fill the plant, you want enough room to move the shrub around for adjustments and remove air pockets. If you allow air pockets with sloppy back filling, the arborvitae will begin to lean as the soil gets more compacted.

Do not plant arborvitaes too low below the surface. They are much better off planted at the surface level, or slightly above the surface. Most trees and shrubs are like this. There is an old saying when it comes to planting: “If it’s too low, it never grows, and if it’s too high, it’ll never die”.

For landscaping service, lawn mowing company, or spring cleanups visit here.

Plant Profile: Hollies

Posted on January 22, 2019January 22, 2019Categories Blog

Hollies are very versatile plants that can range anywhere from only a foot high, to trees that are 70 feet tall. In ancient times, hollies were used to decorate statues of Saturn (the Roman god of the harvest), to providing medieval protection from evil spirits, and of course decorating our houses at Christmas time with them.

In Pennsylvania, hollies will have no problem growing. They are most hardy in regions 5 and 6, and in Southeast Pennsylvania we are zone 6. Zone 5 would be the Lehigh County and above.

Gender Of The Holly

When you think of hollies, you think of the bright white flowers, red berries, and the shiny prickly leaves. The gender of the holly actually plays a big role in the appearance of the plant. Female hollies will produce berries as long as they are pollinated by a bee who bring seed from a nearby male holly.

Holly Maintenance

These plants do not require regular pruning or trimming, but if you want to keep them small, or to prevent them from overcrowding, pruning is going to be required. Holly bushes are very low maintenance as well, and typically do not need to be watered unless we are in a dry spell.

We always recommend mulch for our clients for a variety of reasons. Hollies are no exception. They have a shallow root system which makes them susceptible to rot and freeze thaw damage in the winter. Mulch not only helps prevent this, but once it decomposes it adds nutrients back into the soil so fertilizer is unnecessary. Also, who doesn’t like the way a fresh garden bed of mulch looks?

How To Plant Hollies

The holly bush you purchase is most likely going to be in a pot. The size of the pot should not matter, but most likely it’s going to be in a three gallon pot. Find the spot you wish to have your holly planted, and make sure it has adequate sunlight and good drainage. All good landscapes start with knowing what your plants need.

  1. Dig a hole in the ground that is about 3 inches wider than the diameter of the holly. Do not dig the hole too deep; allow the holly to sit about one or two inches above the soil line.
  2. Remove the holly from the container and using a shovel or spade, slice about 3 or four inserts into the root ball. Don’t cut the ball in half, just about one or two inches deep. This will prevent the roots from wrapping in a circle and choking itself out. Cutting these inserts will let the ball branch out into the garden.
  3. Back fill the holly. (Fill in the space around the plant)
  4. Sprinkle compost or manure around the bush to help with water retention.
  5. Water.
  6. Add mulch around the base.

We hope you enjoyed our post on holly plant care! Visit our blog for more information on other plants and “how to’s“.

Plant Profile: Hostas

Posted on January 11, 2019January 11, 2019Categories Blog

Hostas are an easy, low maintenance perennial that are perfect for shady areas. Most vibrant perennials require full sun, but not hostas! These plants are excellent for growing under trees as ground cover, or wherever you need to fill in space in a shady area. Hostas come in many different color variations, but the most common variation is green and white. Hostas do flower, and grow a long stalk with usually pink or purple flowers on it. While they may look tropical, they are actually native to Asia. They can withstand very harsh weather conditions are extremely durable. The only drawback for hostas: deer love them. From what I have seen, hostas are a deer’s favorite plant of choice.

How To Plant Hostas

hosta garden bed

Hosta planting is very simple and easy to follow.

  1. Dig a hole about 8-12 inches deep, depending on how long the root system is. Give ample room for the roots to spread.
  2. Fill in the hole by spreading soil around the crown of the hosta. Don’t cover the eye of the root ball when spreading soil. The eye is the part that will grow into the plant, so leave it exposed.

Dividing Hosta Plants

divided hostas

Hostas can grow very fast and begin to take over gardens. Dividing hostas is very simple as well. Gently dig up the hosta you wish to divide. Once the hosta and it’s roots are out of the ground, shake off excess dirt so you can take a good look at the root structure. You will notice that the giant root system is intertwined with other hosta roots. From here, with your hands, separate the the hosta into even parts, ensuring that both newly divided hostas have enough roots to be re-planted. Even if the division is not perfect, and one hosta has more roots than the other, it should be fine.

We recommend hostas for landscapes that will not have a deer problem. If deer are a concern, some recommend planting daffodils around the hostas to give them protection, but we personally have not tried this. Slugs can also be an issue with hostas, but they can be easily managed by sprinkling sand or insecticide around the base of the plant. At the end of the year during a fall cleanup, be sure to cut hostas down to about 2 or 3 inches in height and compost the rest of the dying plant.

We hope you enjoyed this article about hosta planting and division! If you have any questions, feel free to reach out to us.

For landscaping, lawn mowing, and lawn treatment services visit here.

[expand title=" "]

Click here for lawn mowing service in Chalfont PA


Plant Profile: Bearded Iris (Bearded rhizomatous irises)

Posted on January 11, 2019January 11, 2019Categories Blog

Iris, the Greek word for “Rainbow”, are some of our favorite flowers for a garden. Bearded iris have creeping rhizomes (like certain grass types we have discussed) that spread horizontally instead of vertically like most flowers. These flowers bloom in the late spring, and can make a great color addition to any garden.

Similar to daylilies, bearded iris require full sun (6+ hours) and prefer well drained soil. If drainage is a concern, plant Iris in a garden bed that is sloped, or slightly raised above the ground. The best part about planting Iris, is that they are deer resistant, which means you no longer have to worry about deer ruining your garden!

Planting Bearded Iris

iris rhizome explanation

The area which she is pointing to is the main section of the rhizome. It’s important that when you are planting Iris, to NOT fully cover this section of the flower.

  1. Dig a hole twice the width of the longest rhizome, and about six inches deep.
  2. Like the daylily, build a small mound within the hole which will allow the Iris to sit on. Roughly 75% of the main rhizome (pictured above) should be exposed above the surface level.
  3. The Iris has a front and back. The back is where the rhizome roots are pointing. When planting, aim the roots away from lawn or garden edges so the rhizomes have enough area to expand.
  4. Water, and add fertilizer if this is a newly established garden. Add something with a nitrogen content no higher than 10.

Iris Maintenance

Iris will require slightly more upkeep than other other low maintenance perennials. They expand quickly and will create multiple rhizomes that increase the number of Iris in a garden. Every few years they need to be divided.

Iris rhizome cluster.

To divide the Bearded Iris, dig up the roots of the flower first. In the picture above you can easily see the clump of Iris rhizomes. Simply dig up the plant, and pull off the rhizomes around the middle one, which will be the biggest rhizome. If you are going to transport the rhizome to another area, be sure that the height of the established rhizome is no bigger than 3 inches or so. Most gardeners recommend dividing Iris one month after they have flowered.

We hope this was informative and you enjoyed reading this! If you have any questions, feel free to reach out to us.

For landscaping service,lawn mowing, and lawn care services visit here.

Plant Profile: The Daylily (Hemerocallis)

Posted on January 10, 2019January 11, 2019Categories Blog

The daylily is one of the most reliable flowers you can grow in a garden. They are extremely insect and disease resistant, which makes them very low maintenance. The botanical name Hemerocallis is Greek, and translates in English to “Beauty for a day”. This is quite fitting for daylilies considering they often have multiple flowers that bloom for a day, and die within 24 hours of blooming.

Daylilys bloom in June, and only show their great beauty for a few weeks. Most breeds of daylily thrive in full sun (6+) hours, and don’t require fertilization. We recommend adding compost or mulch to the gardens every year to help supply them with basic nutrients.

When And How To Plant Daylilies

We recommend planting daylilies in the spring, so they have a lot of time to establish before the winter. Realistically, they can be planted almost any time of the year because they are so resilient. When planting a daylily, consider the following steps:

  1. Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the size of the root system, and around 6 inches deep. Give at least 12 inches of space between each plant.
  2. Once the hole has been dug, create a small mound within the hole that will allow the crown to sit just above the surface level.
  3. The daylily’s roots should be spread out on top of the mound so they have space to grow and expand.
  4. Cover the root structure and mound with soil and leave just the crown exposed to sunlight.
  5. Water, and wait for them to bloom!
picture of daylilies in a beautiful garden

After the daylilies have been established, they will return year after year stronger than ever! We hope you enjoyed this blog topic. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out to us.

For landscaping, lawn mowing, and lawn care services visit here.

Improve Your Home’s Curb Appeal With These Tips

Posted on November 7, 2018Categories Blog

How To Improve The Curb Appeal Of Your Home

Whether you are selling your home, or just want to improve your curb appeal, we have a few tips that can help. Being that we are a landscaping company, we are going to start with the landscaping basics.

Clean Up Existing Garden Beds

mulch installation garden bed full of weeds

The easiest way to enhance curb appeal is probably the most annoying. Pulling the weeds from your garden beds is the best place to start. Not only do overgrown weeds look bad, they can also be stealing vital nutrients from your flowers or shrubs. The best time to do this is in the early spring before they really start to take over garden beds. Put down a pre-emergent like Preen Garden Weed Preventer to help prevent weed seeds from germinating.




Install Mulch or Stone

Mulch is an easy way to enhance curb appeal. Just by laying down black, brown or red mulch you have instantly enhanced a garden bed’s look. When installing mulch, be sure not to pile it up near the base of trees or shrubs. Far too often we see homes with a mountain of mulch around the root of a tree. While this might look aesthetic, it can do a lot of harm to the tree. Black mulch is the most common and a personal favorite of ours. Red and Brown can sometimes clash with certain flowers or shrubs decreasing the curb appeal.

Stone is best for shaded areas, or used in combination with mulch. Some people choose stone over mulch because of the perceived low maintenance. Weeds will grow anywhere that water collects, including between stones, so stones are definitely not weed proof.


Edge Your Property

Edging is a super fast way to really make your lawn stand out. You can either buy an edger from a local dealer or use a string trimmer. If the edge is too overgrown like the first picture below, using an edging tool with a blade will be much more efficient.

overgrown unedged propertyperfectly edged property

We use a Husqvarna edger and are super happy with the results from it. We also have an Echo edger which works great too. A string trimmer can be used to keep up maintenance of a finely edged curb.


Maintain A Healthy Lawn

lawn stripes from a lawn mowing in new britain pa

This is the easiest of all ways to improve your home’s curb appeal. Regular mowing, and mowing at the correct heights during the right time of the year is the key to a healthy lawn. From April through July mow at a height of 3.5 inches. In August-November mow at around 3 – 3.25 inches.

Apply a nitrogen fertilizer around three times a year, starting in March or April, once during the summer, and November before winter comes. Using store bought “Weed N’ Feed” can honestly give you a tremendous lawn without using heavy pesticides or herbicides.

If you don’t have time to work on the lawn, hire a mowing service like us! (shameless plug).



Trim Hedges and Prune Bushes

trimmed hedges in pennsylvania

Pruning bushes and trimming hedges can easily improve your home’s curb appeal. Buy or rent a hedge trimmer from Home Depot and contour the hedges to it’s natural shape. Certain shrubs will have a globe like shape or a box like shape. Trim off the new growth and try to maintain the natural shape. Pruning can be trickier. Consult with an expert on how far your should prune back a shrub. If a shrub is pruned back too far, it can permanently damage the plant.




What Is The Best Type Of Grass For My Pennsylvania Lawn?

Posted on October 27, 2018November 7, 2018Categories Blog

The Best Grass Types For Your Pennsylvania Lawn

In Pennsylvania and other Northeast Regions, almost all lawns will have a mix of cool season grasses. Our region in particular has harsh winters and hotter summers, so a grass seed that can withstand both is what you will need. Warm season grasses like Bermuda grass are very common in the South because they are heat tolerant, but in the Northeast, a grass type like this won’t survive the winter. When you go to buy grass seed, make sure the bag has a mix of the following: Tall Fescue, Ryegrass and Kentucky Bluegrass.

A mix is best for planting grass seed in Pennsylvania because of our sporadic weather conditions. Kentucky Bluegrass goes dormant during droughts and periods of extensive heat, while fescues and ryegrass tend to fair better. Kentucky Bluegrass is better during the colder months like April and October, while fescues and ryegrass tend to be dormant. Each grass type compliments one another. A lawn that has only one type of grass seed is more susceptible to weed takeovers during dormancy periods.

Preventing Dormancy

tall fescue, bluegrass and ryegrass in one pictureThe best way to prevent your lawn from going dormant (turning brown) is to water during times of drought, and to not cut your grass too low. Pennsylvania grasses could only be watered once a week during a drought, but make sure to really soak the ground. If the ground has become too solid and begun to crack, a deep watering is going to be needed or else the water won’t soak in properly.

Sometimes homeowners want their lawns cut below three inches in the summer, and do not realize the stress they’re putting on their lawn. Just like a shrub that has been pruned too deep, grass can be easily stressed and damaged.

Fertilizing with a nitrogen fertilizer in May is the best, but applying fertilizer during the summer is not ideal. A nitrogen based fertilizer is best reserved for May and around September. Avoid applying fertilizer to a brown patch in the summer, as the yellow spots on your lawn are most likely due to drought or disease. Fesuce, ryegrass and Kentucky bluegrass all are susceptible to brown patches of dormancy, and a fungicide may need to be applied.

Kentucky bluegrass, fescue, and ryegrass do not need excess fertilizer like we stated in a previous post. Applying fertilizer to a lawn with a fungus will only enable the fungus to spread.

Excessive Shade Areas

Fine fescue and tall fescue are your best options for shady areas. They have their limits though, and it’s hard to expect an area that gets less than four hours of sun will look as nice as the rest of your lawn. Plant a fescue blend in the fall after leaves have fallen off the trees around them, so they can get extra sunlight during their germination period. Water every day for at least 10 days and avoid foot traffic and mowing it.

Normal Sun (4+) Hours

close up image of zoysia grassRyegrass, Kentucky Bluegrass and Fescues are all great options for planting in sunny areas. In our opinion, avoid planting zoysia grass. The picture to the right is of zoysia. We dislike zoysia because of the early dormancy that it goes through in Pennsylvania. Around October the zoysia grass will become a light yellow/white color that makes the lawn look terrible. They are a creeping grass which allows them to overtake large amounts of the lawn with relative ease. Zoysia grass can not be striped, so if you like looking at the nice stripes on your lawn, plant a mix of Kentucky bluegrass, fescue and ryegrass.


When To Plant Grass Seed In Pennsylvania

Ideally, planting grass should be done at the end of August through the beginning of October. You may also be able to plant grass seed in the beginning of Spring, but Fall is the best time in our opinion. Have the lawn aerated before you overseed for the best results. Overseeding is when you double or triple the amount of seed that is recommended per square feet of your lawn. The best practice for overseeding in our opinion is applying the regular amount of grass seed recommended for your lawn vertically, and then applying the same amount horizontally, ensuring full coverage of the spreader. If the ground you are seeding is completely bare, make sure to pick any weeds, and to mix in some composted soil or peat moss to help the grass seed retain moisture.

If you have any questions, please feel free to reach out to us and we will gladly help!

[expand title="Click Here To

For lawn mowing service in Chalfont, click here.

For lawn mowing service in Doylestown, click here.

For lawn mowing service in New Britain, click here.

For fall leaf cleanup in New Britain, click here



Fall Leaf Cleanup Service

Posted on October 15, 2018October 13, 2020Categories BlogTags , , ,

Fall Leaf Cleanups And Leaf Removal

leaf removal setup

We are scheduling fall leaf cleanups in New Britain, Chalfont, Doylestown and surrounding towns now so please contact us for a free leaf removal/leaf cleanup estimate!

Interested in curb side leaf pickup? Simply schedule a day that works for both of us, blow them to the curb and we’ll pick them up with our leaf loader and haul them away for you.

We’ve written before on our blog about the importance of cleaning your leaves for a healthy lawn. Fall leaf cleanup is essential for preserving a healthy lawn. Leaves, when mulched up by a mower are great organic compost. However, if left sitting on your lawn, will undoubtedly invite disease to plague your lawn next spring.

Dual Leaf Cleanup Program

Our dual leaf cleanup program includes TWO leaf cleanup visits starting in November, followed by a second leaf cleanup in December or January. Over the years we have come to realize that most properties need two cleanups. Our Dual Leaf Cleanup Program starts at $350 and most homes fall in the $400-500 range. Our prices are based on a properties square footage.

Leaf Removal Pricing

Interested in having one cleanup done this year instead of the dual leaf cleanup program? We charge a per hour man rate which also includes a dumping fee. We do not openly advertise this rate but will happily provide it to you via email or phone call. Our professional team uses commercial leaf blowers, walk behind blowers and rakes to clean out all beds and we finish by hauling them away with our heavy duty debris loader and dump trailer combination.

Our team is highly efficient at doing cleanups. We survey the property before we begin the timer and establish the fastest way to get in and get out, saving the customer money in the end.

For wooded properties that do not need leaves hauled away, we only charge the per hour man rate.

andrew standing next to a truck full of leaves after a cleanup

If you are looking for a lawn maintenance service, click on your town below for more information, or visit our contact page for an estimate.

Here is a small gallery of some of our leaf removal service work! Check out our Facebook and Instagram where we regularly post images of our work.

See What Our Customers Are Saying About Us!

Unbiased Review of Cub Cadet 33 inch Walk Behind Mower (CC 760 es)

Posted on October 11, 2018October 11, 2018Categories Blog

Cub Cadet 33 inch Walk Behind Mower Review

image of Cub Cadet 33 inch Walk Behind Mower (CC 760 es) review


If you are looking for a walk behind mower that takes up minimal space in the garage, and works almost as well as a commercial walk behind, the Cub Cadet 33 inch Walk Behind Mower (CC 760 es) is an excellent choice. It definitely has flaws, which I’ll address, but after using one for six years now, it’s arguably one of the best purchases we have made. Let’s start with some Pro’s and Con’s of the mower.


  • Compact – does not take up a lot of space on a trailer, or in a storage area.
  • Strong Engine – have not had to replace any engine parts in six years and 600 hours.
  • Light Weight – easy to maneuver around tight corners.
  • Gives A Good Stripe
  • Electric Start – In my opinion, anything that is electric start is better than pull start.
  • Incredible On Steep Hills – Put the mower into the “1” speed and it will walk itself up a hill with an 85 degree slope. The Cub Cadet 33′ Walk Behind is the best mower I’ve ever seen on steep hills.
  • Very Easy Access For Any Maintenance – Easy to change belts, oil, blades, etc.
  • Good Sized Gas Tank – Can hold around 2 gallons of gas, which is CONSIDERABLY more than a push mower.


  • Cheap Deck Welding – Have had to replace the deck twice because it randomly cracked and fell off. The second time I took it to a welder who reinforced it with a piece of steel and have not had issues since.
  • Drive Speed Change – There are five speeds on this mower, Reverse, 1, 2, 3, and 4. 1 is reserved for hills and 2 and 3 are just a little too slow in my opinion, and the 4th speed is too fast. It does not seem to have a nice middle ground speed.
  • Uncomfortable Handles – Until you have used the mower for awhile, your hands will hurt from constantly letting go and re-engaging the drive and blade handles.

Who Would This Mower Benefit The Most?

This mower has a wide range of applications. It can easily be a reliable homeowner unit that gets used once or twice a week, or it can be part of a lawn mowing service‘s fleet. We use this mower for probably an hour or two of mowing per week, for our clients who have backyards with small gates that we can not fit our zero turn mower in. In my honest opinion, I do not see why a landscaper would purchase a 32″ commercial walk behind from brands like Bobcat or Scag, when they can cost three-four times as much as the Cub Cadet 33 inch Walk Behind Mower (CC 760 es). The only exception would be if the landscaper uses it with extreme frequency. In this case, the Cub Cadet will not be able to handle such workload.

If you have a decent sized lawn (1/4 acre- 1/2 acre) and are looking for a walk behind unit, I would recommend this. I have not tried the Toro Timemaster 33″ Walk Behind or the Exmark 30″ Walk Behind, but I would like to so I can compare brands and update this.



Let me know if you have any questions, and feel free to shoot me an email at for any other questions you might have.

Return to our homepage 

Return to the blog section